Weingut Buchegger

“With no mediocre wines anywhere in the range, Buchegger justifies its renown as one of the Kremstal’s finest estates.”  —Stephen Brook, The Wines of Austria, ©2016

"Unfortunately, when we arrived in Austria this year for VieVinum, we found out that the owner of this winery, Walter Buchegger, had passed away. He and his wife Silke Mayr had originally kept their wineries independent from one another until 2006, when they started to share a winery space. They worked together to run both wineries; now Mayr will manage both. Mayr and the Buchegger team share Walter’s vision and feel that the best way to honor his memory, is to continue to run the winery and vineyards following his desires. He is of course irreplaceable, and his drive, expertise, and daily presence are missed. 

Walter Buchegger took over from his father in 1994, making him the sixth generation to run the family estate, established in 1893. They have 15 hectares of vines located in the Kremstal on mostly conglomerate soil topped with loess. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are planted, along with a smattering of Zweigelt, Chardonnay and Merlot. The loess has a high chalk content—65%—giving the wines nice tension. Buchegger’s top sites are the Gebling, Holzgasse, Pfarrweingarten, Moosburgerin, and Tiefenthal.

Buchegger farms following the Austrian “Kontrolled Integrated Production” or KIP, which is stricter in some ways that the normal organic designation: for example, it places more stringent limits on the amount of copper sulphate allowed and limits the use of tractors which can compact the soil. Allowing the soil to “breathe” leads to healthier root systems and vines. Early on in the nineties, Buchegger stopped using herbicides or insecticides in his vineyards because of the health risks.  The vines pre-date clonal breeding and all are massale selection from the time the winery was established.

Buchegger makes very classic style Kremstal wines. The wines are characterized by ripeness and power, but always without botrytis; Walter liked his wines to be clean, fruity, and easy to drink; complex, without being complicated. I tasted 2017’s at the VieVinum fair with Buchegger’s cellar master, Michael Nastl, who had worked at Brundlmayer in the Kamptal for many years before joining the Buchegger team in 2014. Holding back tears, we tasted through a gorgeous line up of 2016’s and 2017’s. Nastl described 2016 as a cool year with quite a bit of rain, which was beneficial to the wines as they are really pushed to absorb the minerals from the soil. He described 2017 as hot and dry. I found that the 2017’s had juicy ripeness and a nice, bright, savory minerality. 2016’s had a striking floral quality on the nose and the signature quality that Buchegger’s wines always have: an approachability that is full of fruit, yet with enough mouthwatering acidity to make you want another sip."

—Michele Peters, French & Austrian Brand Manager