Rebholz: Magnum GG
I have been tasting and drinking and selling the Pinot Blancs made by Hansjorg Rebholz for a decade now, from vintages stretching back twice as far, and I will attest with naked honesty (and admittedly contrarian glee) that I have enjoyed them and wondered at them in their mature versions more than ANY dry white wines I have ever tasted. The Rebholz Weisserburgunder GG Im Sonnenschein—his top cuvee which he picks from a grand cru of 250 million year old limestone—is carved like an ivory Chinese devotional, infinitesimally detailed, burnished by smoke and draped in luxuriant robes of cream. The wine has no oak to distract from its pear perfume and ample acids to enliven it. There’s fruit in the early years, as there is in great German Riesling. But unlike wines from Riesling in which the fruit is inescapably present and often dominant, that aspect melts quickly into irrelevance in the Pinot Blanc. It’s more about geology here, specifically the act of drilling down to the wine’s limestone interior; a different sort of pleasure, a more cerebral one, but no less exciting for its effect on your mind and body while you’re drinking it. In short, it focuses you. Go ahead and blind taste it against the Great Whites of your cellar or a friend’s. The Rebholz will puzzle, fascinate, and ultimately shine forth from its peers. Poured from magnum(not by Magnum, sorry) it provides one of the great lifetime drinking experiences.
(Magnum himself not included.)