Barolo Baudana

2017
Italy
Piedmont

The cru of Baudana can seem undersung compared to more famous sites, but in the recent past it was not so. “This vineyard has contributed to creating excellent signature wines since the 1930s and has always been held in high esteem by the locals”--Atlante delle Vigne di Langa, Slow Food, 1990.  It was also singled out in Renato Ratti's now widely-cited 1970 map of the Barolo zone's best vineyards.  Soils are a combination of the bluish-gray Tortonian-era Sant'Agata Fossili marls and the older whitish-yellow Formazione di Lequio from the Serravallian epoch.  This tends to give a wine with the depth and power one associates with Serralunga, but with a gentler tannin structure, perhaps reminiscent of the wines of Barolo and La Morra. 

The Vairas farm 1.6ha of Baudana, SW-facing at 350m.  Vines for the Barolo Baudana are the oldest, planted in 1960.  Fermentation is in open-top wood vats, which lasts 20-30 days with manual punchdowns. Depending on the vintage, up to 5% whole clusters could be used, fairly rare for Nebbiolo. After fermentation, macerations continue cappello sommerso for an additional 20-35 days. Aging is for around 32 months in neutral Slavonian oak botti, followed by at least 8 months of bottle aging. Unfined/unfiltered. 3,500 bottles made. 

 

96 points
"Balsamic aromas of camphor and cedar mingle with rose and leather on this full-boded, savory red. Structured and delicious, the juicy palate is still youthfully austere, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, baking spice and licorice framed in noble tannins before a black tea finish. Drink 2025–2037."
Kerin O'Keefe,
Wine Enthusiast
95+ points
"The 2017 Barolo Baudana is such a gorgeous wine. It, too conveys the power of Serralunga, but with a bit less heft than is typically the case. Sweet dark cherry, iron, cedar, rose petal, mint and white pepper give the 2017 its effusive, inviting personality. This is such a tremendous showing."
Antonio Galloni,
Vinous
, February 2021
93 points
"From a historic vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba, the Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo Baudana takes an extra minute to open and ultimately reveals a consistent and compact package of aromas centered on dark fruit, rusty earth and crushed flowers. It's quite nice the way the wine holds its cards closer to its proverbial chest. It lets its guard down one little piece at a time. There is some sweetness, too, and the wine feels weighty and powerful. I'd definitely give it a few more years of cellar aging so that the wine finds time to focus and flesh out. Some 3,500 bottles were released."
Monica Larner,
Wine Advocate
, June 17, 2021
93 points
"A chewy, tannic wine with dark berry, walnut and some tar. Full-bodied and flavorful. Firm and intense yet fine-grained tannins. Give it two or three years to come together. Try from 2023."
James Suckling
, June 2, 2021
92 points
"Luigi Baudana is the historical brand name of this estate, managed by the Vajra winery. The wine is fermented and aged in big Slavonian oak casks. The first impression amazes on the nose for its freshness. Peppery spice, restrained fruits and pomegranate juice, without any oxidative touch. The fairly natural and refreshing acidity balances well-packed but austere tannins, and represents the character of this cru. It's assertive on the finish at present, but although it needs more bottle ageing, the texture is remarkable. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040."
Aldo Fiordelli,
Decanter
, March 28, 2021
16.5+ points
"Pale to mid garnet (less orange than the Vajra 2017s). Intense autumn leaf mulch on the nose. Sweeter and beefier – with even a hint of meat extract – than the Vajra wines. Pretty dry and with sandy tannins on the end. The alcohol is a little evident on the finish. Quite a powerhouse."
Jancis Robinson
, March 17, 2021

SKU/Code: 
DB3271-17
Product Line: 
Wine
Red
Varietal: 
Nebbiolo
Farming Type: 
Organic