Blanc Fume de Pouilly [6/750]
Blanc Fumé de Pouilly comes from a variety of younger vines vineyards, not from a named plot. Blanc Fumé is another name for Sauvignon Blanc in the region. It has happened, although very rarely, that Dagueneau did not get the AOC approval for Pouilly Fumé. His main reason to use Blanc Fumé de Pouilly is that it is a legal way to say the AOC, while it puts a distance between his wines and the rest of the producers in the AOC.
There is as usual nothing mundane about the “basic” Dagueneau cuvee, the estate’s 2009 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly. This is the sole cuvée at its address to blend across two soil types – Marne chalk and silex – as well as across several far-flung parcels, some of which were hailed on this year, and the parts had not yet been assembled for this 2009 when I tasted in June, so I offer only a composite impression. Smoky red currant, lime, and nettle display an aromatic pungency that coincides with a bright, energetic, silken-textured, very pure palate impression. White peach and wafting florality are conveyed by the (in this vintage, one-third) Marne chalk portion. The suffusion of chalk here is as usual impressive without in any way blocking the mouth-watering flow of fruit, and the same can be said as far as the influence of wood is concerned. This finishes with vibratory intensity and ringing clarity, as though it had been grown in a vintage from which nobody else in the region got to make wine. Expect it to be worth following for at least 6-8 years. (91-92+) David Schildknecht, eRobertParker.com # 190, Aug 2010