"In addition to running his family’s Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Julien Brocard started own label in 2012. His own 44.5-acre domaine is Demeter certified, including the 27 acres at Boissoneuse, on a hill above Préhy, where he first experimented with biodynamics in the mid-1990s. He ferments the wine in large oak vats, allowing the grape lees to transmit a sense of the limestone soil. Under a sun-warmed apple fragrance, the lees carry the generous richness of an oyster broth, the flavors held in tension that predicts more detailed flavors to come. This performs above most village Chablis and well above its price."