"The Granite cuvée from Ployez-Jacquemart is a special bottling that Laurence Ployez has fashioned to commemorate the ninetieth anniversary of the maison, from a wide palette of vintages and all three major grape varieties. The cépages is the easier side of the equation here, as the wine is composed of sixty-one percent chardonnay, thirty-one percent pinot noir and eight percent pinot meunier (with the latter all from the family’s home village of Ludes on the Montagne de Reims). The chardonnay is from a wide variety of different villages, including Mesnil-sur-Oger, Tauxières, Pui-Sieulx, Cuis, Bisseuil, Grauve and Cramant. The pinot noir is all from the village of Mailly. But, even more complex than the cépages is the range of vintages this wine has been fashioned from, as it is a composition of 1976, 1982, 1983, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2011, 2012 and 2013! Forty-one percent of the wines were barrel- fermented and did not undergo malolactic fermentation, but I have no idea which ones. It was disgorged in June of 2019 and is quite a youthful wine in profile, offering up a beautiful bouquet of apple, pear, fresh almond, a very complex base of chalky soil tones, brioche and a discreet floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and vibrant, with an excellent core, great mineral drive, utterly refined mousse and a very long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. Though this has some very old wines in its blend, it is not an old wine by any stretch of the imagination and I am sure it will drink gorgeously for the next thirty to forty years! It is an utterly superb bottle. 2020-2050+. "
View From the Cellar
, June 2020