Fleurie "La Griffe du Marquis"


100% Gamay. Grapes from most of Roilette's oldest vines go into the "Cuvée Tardive" bottling, but a small portion of them dating back to 1930 are reserved for the smallest of all Roilette production, La Griffe du Marquis, the only barrique-aged wine from this cellar. As for the other estate vines, the soils are heavy clay with relatively little granite and quite a lot of the iron-like mineral manganese. The farming is sustainable or lutte raisonnée. All vineyard work is by hand; the soils are worked only superficially, at most twice per year, to protect the roots of the older vines.

Vinification is traditional, semi-carbonic Beaujolais style. The whole clusters are harvested by hand and fermented spontaneously with native yeasts in open-top concrete tank. Maceration lasts around 18 days for La Griffe, with a submerged cap rather than punchdowns. Sulfur use is quite minimal. The wine is aged in used barrique for a full year, so the vintage is always one behind that of all other Roilette wines. It is bottled without fining or filtration. Alain Coudert makes a point of noting that his parents were not aristocracy, but their village nicknames were "Le Marquis et La Marquise", for which this serious wine was playfully named. 


94 points
"The old vine Griffe du Marquis from Alain Coudert is also produced from the eighty year-old vines on the estate. This is the only wine raised in older Burgundy casks, rather than the customary foudres of the region, with the casks ranging from two to eight years of age. The 2019 Griffe comes in listed at fourteen percent octane and delivers a fine, youthful aromatic constellation of black cherries, pomegranate, a bit of grilled meats, woodsmoke, a nice dollop of spices and fresh thyme, a beautifully complex base of soil tones and just a hint of cedar from the older casks. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with a superb core of fruit, fine mineral drive and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex and very promising finish. This is going to be outstanding once it is ready to drink, but it will demand a bit of cellaring to drink optimally. 2027-2065."
John Gilman,
View From The Cellar
November 2021

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