Integer Zibibbo


100% Zibibbo. De Bartoli was the first to bottle a dry-fermented Zibibbo on the island of Pantelleria, where the hot climate and history bred a tradition of sweet, dried-grape-based wine. Marco began with the latter in the 1980's, acquiring a 3-hectare plot of Zibibbo vines planted in 1957 on north-facing terraces at 350 meters. The making of dry whites was a natural evolution, in keeping with De Bartoli's trajectory in Marsala on mainland Sicily, where Grillo-based dry whites joined their more traditional Marsala wine line-up in the 1990's. The first of the two dry Zibibbos was Pietranera, named for the "black rock" volcanic soils); the second was Integer.

The Integer Zibibbo comes from the same old, alberello-trained vines but is made in a completely different way. "Integer" means "whole" and is itself the root word of "integrity", and the Integer Zibibbo is the family's honoring of that grape's fullest, purest potential (as is their Integer Grillo from their Marsala estate vines) via the most old-fashioned grape-growing and winemaking. The wine is made from the rare and small crop of racemes (called "sganguna" on Pantelleria) or lateral shoots off of the main grape bunches. They do not grow or ripen fully in cooler vintages, but when that fruit is available, it yields no more than 15hl/ha, is hand-harvested and made in a similar manner as the Integer Grillo:  spontaneously fermented without temperature control and macerated for a month with the skins in wood. It undergoes malolactic fermentation and is aged on its lees with bâtonnage in wood for up to year; it is bottled without filtration or sulfur. The goal is purity of expression in its fullest, most age-worthy form.

The Integer project began in the 2006 vintage and is classified like all dry De Bartoli whites as IGT Terre Siciliane. Not made annually or the exact same way each vintage.

92 points
"It’s time to put your wine geek hat on and indulge in the uniquely thrilling 2018 Zibibbo Integer. It offers all of the aromas found within a microbrewery, contained in one single glass. At times it’s crushed elderberries, then grapefruit, then grilled pineapple, unruly fermentations, mango, ginger… each swirl brings something new. It’s silky and somewhat weighty in feel, with nervous acids and salty minerals setting the stage for notes of papaya, kiwi and exotic florals. The mouth is left literally salivating, as the 2018 finishes incredibly long but also amazingly refreshing. This old-school Zibibbo goes through long skin contact and aging on the lees in a combination of large botti and amphora, all without temperature control or the use of sulfur. That said, as enjoyable as this experience is, the chances of variability from bottle to bottle are higher than normal."
Eric Guido,
Vinous Media
, June 2021

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