Les Rachais Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature

2011

100% Chardonnay. Les Rachais is the pinnacle of the Boulard wines, coming as it does from the original family estate parcel planted with selection massale cuttings in 1967. Francis first started making this zero-dosage vintage Blanc de Blancs in 2002, at the time under the Raymond Boulard label. The Les Rachais plot was the subject of Francis’s first experiment with biodynamic farming; so successful was the experiment that Francis and his daughter Delphine split over it with the rest of the family in 2009, taking their rights to 60 ares of Les Rachais with them. It is now certified biodynamic.

The soils here are notably sandy, with 2 meters of sand over limestone mother rock, Interestingly, the legal name of the vineyard is L'Heurtebise. Because this name is not unique in Champagne, Francis decided to call the wine "Rachet" in order to distinguish this special parcel. But besides being a pruning term, “Rachet” is also the name of a lieu-dit in the Aube region of Champagne, so the government wouldn’t allow it for the Boulard bottling. The compromise was the phonetically identical "Rachais".

The fruit is harvested at high ripeness in order to achieve balance with little to no dosage. The hand-harvested bunches are gently pressed, and only first-press juice is used. It is fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, in small oak barrels. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and remains on its lees in barrel for a full year, with monthly  batônnage in accordance with the lunar calendar. It is then bottled with must from the new vintage—rather than with the traditional liqueur di tirage normally used in Champagne—in accordance with the lunar calendar. The 2011 was disgorged in October 2019 with zero dosage. It is typically the most powerful, complex and richly saline of the Boulard line-up.

91+ points
"Though it does not state it on the label, the les Rachais bottling from Francis Boulard and his daughter Delphine is composed entirely of chardonnay, from a parcel farmed biodynamically and planted in 1967. The wine is barrel-fermented, goes through full malo and is aged for one year prior to bottling for its secondary fermentation. The wine was disgorged in December of 2017 after more than five years aging sur latte and finished with a dosage of three grams per liter. It offers up a superb bouquet of apple, pear, hazelnut, brioche, a lovely base of soil tones and just a whisper of incipient smokiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and zesty, with an excellent core of fruit, frothy mousse, lovely focus and grip and a long, complex and nicely mineral finish. This is starting to show the first vestiges of secondary complexity and is drinking very well indeed today, but still has plenty in the reserve tank for a long life in bottle. 2020-2040. 91+. "
John Gilman,
View From The Cellar
, May-June 2020

SKU/Code: 
DB8563-11
Product Line: 
Wine
Sparkling
Sparkling White
Varietal: 
Chardonnay
Farming Type: 
Organic