Moulin-à-Vent Vielles Vignes (X. & N. Barbet)


In 2006, Xavier and his brother Nicolas purchased prestigious vineyards in “Champ de Cour”, “les Perelles” and “Bruyères des Thorins”. These “climats” are located near the windmill and the old manganese mines. Manganese is very peculiar to this terroir, and it gives the wine its colour, density and particular minerality.

The vines are more than 50 years old and they benefit from a south-east exposure. To extract the best of this special terroir they use traditional cultivating practices. Working and tilling the soil to develop the biodiversity, growing grass on some plots, and having a strict control of the yields are factors that have allowed the production of high quality grapes. Additionally, there is no use of herbicides or insecticides.

Following the Burgundian way, the grapes are destemmed before being put into vats. It is followed by a cold maceration that lasts five days and just after the fermentation starts naturally at a low temperature. The fermentation is long (20 to 25 days), optimizing the extraction of color and tannins.

Moulin à Vent is known for its power, structure and longevity, the antithesis of what most people think of when they think of Beaujolais. We are lucky that the Barbet's like to hold onto this wine and release it when it's just beginning to open up. It's made in open top, oak tronconical (tronconique) vats and it's aged in barrels and large foudres for a year. Beautiful aromatics with notes of violets, juicy cherry and supple tannins with structure.

93 points
"Opaque bright-rimmed ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented black raspberry, cherry and floral oil aromas show very good clarity and a spicy touch of white pepper. Chewy and expansive in the mouth, offering gently sweet dark berry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors that pick up a hint of smokiness with air. Dusty tannins build slowly through the long, smoky finish, where the cherry and floral notes repeat."
Josh Raynolds,
Vinous Media
, October 2019
91+ points
"The Barbet brothers’ 2015 Moulin-à-Vent is a very good example of this ripe vintage, with the wine coming in listed at 13.5 percent octane. The last time I tasted this was at the domaine in March of 2018, where it stuck out a bit in a lineup of primarily 2016s, but it is aging very nicely and I like it even a bit more today than I did fifteen months ago. The nose still shows the ripeness of the torrid summer of 2015, offering up scents of black cherries, blackberries, a touch of coffee grounds, dark chocolate, hung game, dark soil tones, woodsmoke and a nice touch of violets in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with good focus and grip, a touch of backend tannin and a long, complex and quite tasty finish. I mentioned in the last report that this is not quite as transparent an example as is customary for this bottling, and this remains the case, but it has impressive depth and complexity and has a lot going for it, despite it being clearly a child of the torrid summer of 2015. 2019-2045"
John Gilman,
View From the Cellar
, #81 May-June 2019

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