Passito di Pantelleria DOC "Padre della Vigna"

100% Zibibbo. From very low, bush-trained, organically farmed vines on De Bartoli's estate in the contrada of Bukkuram on the island of Pantelleria. The vines average around 50 years old and are grow in light, sandy volcanic soils in a low-walled, windy clos. De Bartoli makes two dried-grape passito wines--the tradition on the island--one being "Sole di Agosto" and the other the longer-aged "Padre della Vigna". Harvest is manual and conducted in two stages. The earlier one takes place at normal ripeness; these bunches are dried on mats in the sun for 2 weeks. A month later, riper bunches are harvested, direct-pressed and spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts. Then the sun-dried bunches are destemmed and those raisins added to the later-harvest base wine for a 3-month maceration. The wine is aged for 6 months in oak barrels and released as “Sole di Agosto” ("sun of August”), a lighter, fresher style of sweet wine (even at 180 grams/liter of residual sugar). In very special vintages, De Bartoli makes the rare “Padre della Vigna” or "father of the vineyard" instead of making "Sole". For "Padre", there are two key differences. The drying bunches go for at least 4 instead of only 2 weeks in the sun. And after the 3-month maceration of the raisins with the base wine, this wine is aged for a minimum of 3-3.5 years in French barrique. It usually finishes with at least 200 grams/liter of residual sugar, a much darker color and much more complex character.


93 points
"The 2014 Bukkuram Padre della Vigna is a deep auburn, nearing burnt sugar in color. It opens with a dusty blend of cedar box, incense and spiced orange. This is like weighted velvet on the palate or molten chocolate, mixing savory and sweet with depths of dried fruits and confectionary spice offset by sour citrus. It cleans up remarkably well, finishing long yet surprisingly fresh as hints of rum-raisin combine with sour melon. The Padre della Vigna is a beast, yet balance is expertly maintained."
Eric Guido,
Vinous Media
June 2023

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