Riesling Auslese Trocken Kallstadter Saumagen

96 points
"Offers a quite spicy and refreshing nose of almond cream, dried flowers, coconut, gooseberry, herbs and white minerals. The wine is intense, full of grip and yet at no point weighty on the palate. Bracing acidity eventually comes through and adds length and some power to to this overall very delicate and highly elegant expression of a dry Riesling. The finish is very pure and fully dry. The wine has immense potential, but will have to be cellared for a good decade to deliver upon it. 2026-2046."
Mosel Fine Wine
95 points
"This wine’s 12.5% alcohol (at analytically nearly complete dryness) reflects virtually the highest achievable must weights for Koehler-Ruprecht in this vintage – barely crossing the legal threshold for Auslese – and very little fruit reached that point. Alkaline and saline sea breeze, smoky marjoram, pungent lemon zest and corn shoots with high-toned evocations of sour mash, gentian distillate and mothball make for a head-turning aromatic display. The silken, almost custardy palate brims with bright fresh lemon, sweet corn and white peach while perpetuating haunting florality. But the overwhelming and striking palate impression is of a multifaceted mineral suffusion and protein-rich savor, featuring Chablis-like suggestions of sweat, oyster liquor, chicken stock, chalk dust, and invigorating piquancy of lemon seed. This shakes up your entire mouth and milks your salivary glands. Good luck resisting the next sip, or indeed cellaring and then trying to keep your corkscrew away from sufficient bottles to insure that you enjoy at least some of them in what is sure to be an even more glorious maturity. This bottling is set to go on sale in September 2018. It’s hardly a coincidence that few dry Pfalz Rieslings today quite measure up to either the best of those being rendered by Sona and Schmitt, or the minuscule quantities of Riesling from this same site being bottled by Sona’s former boss and Koehler-Ruprecht proprietor Bernd Philippi."
David Schildknecht,
, June 2018

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