Riesling Trocken Batterieberg


The namesake vineyard of the estate, a Grand Cru created by blasting the toweringly steep cliff face to rubble in the 1840s. Grey slate, thin topsoil, perfect exposition, extremely old, pre-phylloxera vines on their original rootstock, and a legendary history makes this one of the living treasures of German wine. Hand-harvested and aged in barrel, like all of Gernot’s top wines. Released late.

93 points
"Peach and mirabelle laced with lemon and kumquat peels, fennel and tarragon strike a lovely balance between pungent and cooling aspects, a balance that persists all the way through a soothingly sustained yet animatingly juicy and refreshing finish. The merest hint of sweetness is enough to delightfully reinforce the fruit flavors. Toasted hickory and peach kernel serve for subtly piquant counterpoint on a polished, palpably lees-enriched palate whose enveloping sense of richness in no way precludes lift and clarity. Here is an instance where I perceive Kollmann’s relatively low-sulfur regimen as having contributed positively to an overall sense of lift and textural refinement. "
David Schildnecht,
, June 2017
93+ points
"from 80+-year-old ungrafted vines on stony slate soils with a higher quartzite portion. Its nose combines the purity and deepness of the rocky terroir with perfectly ripe, concentrated Riesling and some lemon flavors. The wine is full-bodied, rich and round on the palate since it contains almost nine grams of residual sugar because the fermentation in old barriques stopped by itself. However, this sweetness combined with the extract and concentration will take the Batterieberg into a great future even though it takes away a bit of purity and transparency at this early stage. The finish is long and reveals a very good, age-worthy structure."
Stephan Reinhardt,
Wine Advocate
, February 2017

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