"2017 Saint Amour is a touch riper than customary, coming in listed at 13.5 percent, but in this vintage, that seems just perfect. As readers know, this is one of my absolute favorite Cru bottlings in the entire region and, in my opinion, is one of the great long-distance runners of Beaujolais. The 2017 Billards is a classic in the making, offering up a beautifully pure and still quite primary bouquet of red and black cherries, gamebird, woodsmoke, a hint of raw cocoa, a complex base of soil tones and a discreet floral topnote redolent of peonies. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a fine core of eventually sappy fruit, an excellent structural chassis, moderate, seamless tannins and great focus and grip on the very, very long and nascently complex finish. This is the finest vintage of Billards since the 2011 and 2005, with perhaps greater purity and a more classical profile than those two previous vintages. It is a must buy for the cellar! 2023-2060"
View From the Cellar
, #81 May-June 2019