Savennières Clos du Papillon

2018

100% Chenin Blanc. The Clos du Papillon is one of the three most celebrated coulées or small ravine-like valleys in Savennières; it and La Roche Aux Moines and La Coulée de Serrant are in essence the grands crus of the appellation. Papillon is nearly a monopole for Closel, shared only with Baumard. it lies mid-slope with full south-southeast exposure that promotes full ripening; proximity to the river promotes the development of botrytis (the fermentation of this musky, earthy sweetness to dryness giving Savennière much of its typical intensity). The sandy, clay-based soil is rich in schist and volcanic stones: the top layer is light and shallow, allowing optimal drainage and forcing the roots deep into the bedrock. The vines range from 20 to 70 years old with extremely low yields of about 20 hectoliters per hectare.

Like the rest of the Closel estate, this venerable vineyard is farmed biodynamically and harvested manually. Unlike the rest, it is harvested in at least two stages--the first being its younger vines, at the same time as the earlier-ripening Jalousie parcels and thus free of botrytis, and the second being its older vines about 10 days later with quite a lot of botrytis. The fruit is whole-cluster pressed, unilke the other Closel wines; the juice is fermented with native yeasts to almost complete dryness. The earlier- and later-harvested lots are vinified and aged on their lees separately for a year in used 400-liter oak barrels. They are then blended, held a few months in vats, dosed with a small amount of sulfur for the first time and then bottled. Clos du Papillon is the crown jewel of Closel, a structured and serious Chenin Blanc meant for aging.

 

95 points
"Drought and scorching heat during the summer marked this very interesting vintage. Bottled in January 2020. A bit of grassiness as well as menthol and mineral-like notes infuse the perfectly ripe white fruit, notably pear. An overall impression of focused clarity and minerality, as well as a silky texture for a 2018 that is taut and weightless. Has real ageing potential. 30 hl/ha. Production 7,000 bottles. Drinking Window 2030 - 2050"
Yohan Castaing,
Decanter
, February 2020
94 points
"Alluring, with impressive range and complexity, showing salted butter notes that frame the core of light brioche, apple and pear flavors, while thyme and white ginger details complete the mix. Very focused, elegant and precise, this could use a few more years to open up fully but is approachable now. Best from 2020 through 2029."
Alecks Zecevic,
Wine Spectator
, September 2019
93 points
"Light golden. High toned and bright, with a pretty complex nose of honeysuckle, tangerine, citrus blossom, and rosewater. The palate is full-bodied, with dense, ripe orchard and citrus fruit, notes of sea spray, salt and white pepper, leading to a finish laced with crushed shell and talc. Powerful and delightful."
Jason Wilson,
Vinous Media
, July 2020

SKU/Code: 
DB0317-18
Product Line: 
Wine
White
Varietal: 
Chenin Blanc
Farming Type: 
Biodynamic