"“The 2018 Les Vieux Clos comes in listed at a slightly lower octane level than the Clos de la Bergerie, as this wine states fifteen percent on the label. I have not tasted a vintage of Nicolas Joly’s Les Vieux Clos bottling since the 2014 vintage, so I was delighted to have a chance to try the 2017 version. As readers may recall, this is a younger vine bottling from Monsieur Joly, with this particular vineyard having been planted in the 1990s with selection massale material taken from Coulée de Serrant. The wine is barrel-fermented but sees no new oak. The 2018 Les Vieux Clos seems to show its ripeness more aromatically than the Clos de la Bergerie, as the fruit tones are more tropical in presentation, and the wine is also a bit more “wild” in the natural wine sense as well. The bouquet offers up scents of pineapple, a bit of guava, lanolin, a good base of soil tones, citrus peel and some pungent floral tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and seems a touch sweeter than the Clos de la Bergerie, with excellent mid-palate concentration, good soil signature, bright acids and a slight prickle of carbon dioxide on the long finish. This is far more adolescent right now than the Clos de la Bergerie, and the wine is a bit hard to read right now. My gut feeling is that it remains structurally sound, it will be excellent with a few years’ worth of bottle age. But the combination of a bit of residual sugar, a bit of CO2 and the touch of natural wine “wildness” may not augur for a flawless evolution in bottle. If we give the wine the benefit of the doubt, then score it 92, but with the caveat that this seems a tad more structurally fragile than the Clos de la Bergerie 2018 at this point in time and could be a bit more risky in the cellar. 2023-2045.”"