92 points
"“Nicolas Joly barrel-ferments and raises all of his Savennières in wood, with the Clos de la Bergerie seeing five percent new oak during its elevage. These are fairly young vines by Monsieur Joly’s standards, being just under thirty years of age, but they are cropped at half the legal limit for Savennières, so this compensates for the slightly younger age of the parcel. The 2018 version offers up a ripe nose, as the wine comes in listed at 15.5 percent octane, with scents of sweet quince, a touch of pineapple, chalky soil tones, beeswax, white flowers and a touch of candied lemon peel wafting from the glass. On the palate the wine is deep, nicely ripe and balanced with a fine undertow of soil tones. The wine has outstanding depth at the core, solid framing acids and very good length and grip on the surprisingly well-balanced finish. There is only a whisper of backend heat evident here today, as well as a touch of natural wine “wildness” on the finish, but this is really quite an impressive wine for its octane level, as it does not lack for freshness or mineral drive. I do not have any experience aging Savennières at this alcohol level, so might ere on the side of caution and drink this wine in its relative youth. Right now it is a very good drink. 2020-2030.”"
View From the Cellar