"The Vouvray “les Promenards” bottling from Mathieu Cosme hails from a parcel of fifty year-old vines that he has in the Deuxième Côte, where there is a bit deeper layer of clay before one strikes the tuffeau strata of limestone. All of Mathieu’s vineyards are certified organic and have been farmed biodynamically since 2014, as suits someone who did a state at Domaine Huët prior to taking over the family estate. The les Promenards is vinified as a Sec bottling and the 2020 offers up an excellent nose of quince, tart pineapple, chalky soil tones, lanolin, a hint of grassiness and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and youthful, with a rock solid core of fruit, bright acids, fine balance and grip and a long, nascently complex finish. This is just starting to shut down a bit and is getting a touch of Vouvray’s adolescent dustiness when first opened, but this dissipates (for the moment) once the wine has had about fifteen minutes of air. It is going to have a long life in bottle, and I would suspect it will close down in a couple of years for a bit of hibernation, before blossoming into its plateau of peak drinkability, which will probably last forty years! Fine juice. 2022-2070"