95% Glera/5% other. Father Loris and sons Raffaele and Adelchi Follador farm about 7 hectares in the twisting, steep valley of Valdobbiadene, working quietly and quite independently of any consumer or commercial expectations. Their vines—mainly of Glera, plus a little of other co-planted local varieties—tend to be around 70 to 80 years old, with some up to 120 years, grown on glacial moraine soils on steep hillsides rich in limestone. Each of these old, head-pruned vines is tended individually and meticulously by hand and replaced as needed with massale selections from their vineyard. Their yields are far lower than the norm in this prolific winegrowing region. And that is only part of what’s rare about their wines.

The grapes are hand-harvested parcel by parcel, with each parcel vinified separately. The fruit is left in whole clusters and pressed extremely gently; fermentation is spontaneous and slow, in vat in the cold cellar, with indigenous yeasts only. The wine goes to full dryness and is left on the lees in tank through the winter; it is then blended and bottled in the spring with must from the same harvest. The bottles go through a second fermentation, again finishing dry, and are not disgorged. Thus the wine has a hazy appearance and wonderful texture, in the tradition of old-fashioned col fondo Prosecco.