"The 2019 Rioja “Garnacha” from Janire Moraza’s eponymous bodega is fermented with native yeasts and aged in cement vats. The wine comes in at a quite civilized 13.5 percent octane in this vintage and delivers a quite elegant (for Garnacha) aromatic constellation of red and black raspberries, chalky soil tones, fruitcake, a touch of smoked meats, Rioja spices and a topnote of cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is deep, tangy and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil signature, ripe, buried tannins and a long, complex and very nicely balanced, youthful finish. I love the backend lift and grip here, but the wine will need some extended cellaring to soften up its chassis of tannin properly. 2035-2075."