Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein

  • Mosel, Germany
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein
  • Photo taken by Fabien Lainé.
  • Photo taken by Fabien Lainé.
  • Photo taken by Fabien Lainé.

Staffelter Hof first appears in texts from in 862 AD. At almost 1,200 years old, it is one of the oldest companies of any kind in the world. The vineyard holdings span 11.5ha (10.2ha planted) of diverse vineyards such as Paradies, Kirchlay, Letterlay, Steffensberg, and as far south as the Dhroner Hofberg. The winery itself is located in Kröv, a village in the heart of the middle Mosel on a sweeping 180⁰ curve of the river between the old, quiet winemaking villages of Wolf and Kinheim. This is not a hotbed of avant-garde creativity. Yet Jan Matthias Klein, a 7th generation winemaker at this estate, is doing something extraordinary here, crafting naturweine the likes of which have rarely been seen in the history of the Mosel.

Jan is a vital member of the Klitzekleine Ring, a group of about a dozen winemakers around Traben-Trarbach dedicated to saving steep slope Mosel vineyards that would otherwise be abandoned.  In that sense, he is a conservationist. However, he is also a powerful innovator. After stages in France, New Zealand, and Australia, Jan came home and steered his family’s winery into quixotic efforts of viticulture being explored by the younger generation in the Mosel. His experimentations with non-German grape varieties (piwis, e.g.), alternative energy and water management at the winery, and other groundbreaking techniques to combat the inevitability of climate change, mark him as a visionary leader in the progressive German wine movement.    

Jan’s farming on the steep slate hills of the area is strictly organic—practicing since 2011 and certified since 2014—which is a very hard and expensive commitment to make. It is far easier to spray pesticides from a helicopter, for instance, than to scramble up and down 60-70⁰ gradient slopes placing natural insect repellants on each and every vine. The hard work is an intrinsic part of the winery’s founding legend, however. Centuries ago, a donkey was originally the laborer of the steep slopes in Kröv until a wolf killed it. Legend has it that the monks caught the wolf and made it do the vineyard work after it killed the donkey. Wolf “Magnus” is still the mascot of the winery today (hence the labels and names).

It cannot be emphasized enough:  these are not normal Mosel wines. They would be exceptional in ANY of the world’s winemaking regions, actually. Klein makes classic Rieslings under the Staffelter Hof label, but works with ZERO SULPHUR on this line of wines. They are unfined, unfiltered, hand-bottled, and contain varying levels of palate-tingling residual CO2. The variety of grapes is kaleidoscopic, featuring cuvees from Frühburgunder, Germany’s ruddy, blue/black-skinned “early Burgundy,” a.k.a. Pinot Noir Précoce, Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Muscat, and a bewildering assortment of Portuguese grapes.

So… the wines are “out there.” But are they good?

Yes, they are rivetingly good; fresh in character, light on their feet (under 11%), joyful to drink if you don’t want to ponder too much about them and fascinating if you do. For those who think the pleasures of “glou-glou” and farm-to-bottle wines do not exist in Germany, these wines are a wake-up call and invitation.

 

BOWLER E-Zine Issue 1 | Q4 2020: Learning and Relearning German Wine
BOWLER E-Zine Issue 2 | Q1 2021: Conversation with Cellar Master, Yamile Abad - Weingut Staffelter Hof - Mosel, Germany
2018 Magical Harvest in Mosel Valley
Image Producer PRODUCT Description Country / Region
DB3626-22
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Pet Nat "Ruby Soho"
2022
Regent
Petillant Naturel from red Regent grapes. No SO2. Sees a brief cold maceration, then fermentation in tank, before finishing its...
Germany

DB4522-21
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Riesling Feinherb "Paradies" (off dry)
2021
Riesling
The 2020er Riesling Paradies Feinherb, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is an off-dry wine (with 21 g/l of residual sugar) with...
Germany

DB3620-22
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Rosé (Pet Nat) "Kiss Kiss Maddie's Lips"
2022
Frühburgunder
11% alc., 15g/l RS. 100% Fruhburgunder (an early-ripening variant of Pinot Noir).  Bottled at four bars of pressure, unfiltered and unfined...
Germany

DB3625-20
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Riesling "Papa Panda's Rising"
2020
Riesling
12% alc, 6.3g/l acid, 0.7g/l residual sugar, fermented in two Mosel füders (1,000L each) until August then put straight into...
Germany

DB3621-22
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein White Blend "Little Bastard"
2022
White Blend
11.5% alc, 0.6g/l RS. A crazy quilt blend of 60% Riesling, 25% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Muller-Thurgau and 3% skin-fermented Muscat.The...
Germany

DB3623-21
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Spätburgunder "Little Red Riding Wolf"
2021
Pinot Noir
100% Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). 12% alc.Half the grapes come from the Krov Paradies behind the winery, a limestone and clay site. The...
Germany

DB3623-22
Organic
Staffelter Hof / Jan Matthias Klein Spätburgunder "Little Red Riding Wolf"
2022
Pinot Noir
100% Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). 12% alc. Half the grapes come from the Krov Paradies behind the winery, a limestone and clay site. The...
Germany