The Franken region (a.k.a. Franconia) lies within the state of Bavaria, a two hours’ drive east of Frankfurt in the opposite direction from what most Americans know as German “wine country.” It possesses its own unique history, language, and geology, distinct from the Rhineland-Palatinate. A variety of grapes are grown along the Main River that meanders through its hills, but Franken is indisputably the homeland of Silvaner, the centuries-old grape variety that defines the region. Weingut Am Stein sits in the western part of Franconia where limestone and terraced vineyards define the style of Silvaner made there: firmer and more linear than the versions farther east. The estate is in the village of Würzburg at the foot of the 1,200+ year old Würzburger Stein, one of the most famous and jaw-droppingly beautiful grand cru’s in Europe. Ludwig and Sandra Knoll, the fifth generation of the family to lead the estate, took over in 1991 and built the modern, cubic building of glass, oak, exposed concrete and clay in which the winery is housed today. Ludwig has dedicated himself completely to the pursuit of quality with no short-cuts or manipulations. The estate owns 39 hectares of naturally farmed vineyards which include the Stein, Innere Leiste, and most importantly the magnificent Stettener Stein, a muschelkalk site where their GG is grown. No synthetic or chemical pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilizers are used. The musts are vinified in an array of vessels including oak barrels, concrete eggs, and underground amphorae. What are the resulting wines like? Savory above all, with herbal, peppery, saline character in every wine--food partners of a very high order (think asparagus, vegetables, herbed fish, pesto, and maki rolls). These are aromatically enticing Silvaners and among the most texturally seductive examples I have ever had the pleasure of tasting.  Am Stein is a VDP member winery, certified biodynamic by Respekt and certified EU organic (DE-Öko-022).