"Hugues Godmé’s new release of his non-vintage Extra Brut bottling is made from equal parts of pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. It is from the base year of 2017, includes thirty percent reserve wines from 2016 and twenty percent from 2015. It and was disgorged in January of 2022, after four years aging sur latte. One third of the vins clairs are barrel-fermented and the wine was finished with zero dosage. The new release offers up a beautifully precise aromatic constellation of white peach, apple, fresh-baked bread, a touch of hazelnut, a gorgeous base of minerality and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely depth at the core, elegant mousse, superb Verzenay mineral drive and a long, snappy finish. This is beautifully balanced, but as it is non-dosé, I would be inclined to tuck it away in the cellar for a couple of years to let its acids relax a bit more, as there is no buffering dosage. But, it is a lovely wine and for fans of non-dosé wines, I am sure it will already be immensely enjoyable."