"The non-vintage bottling of Blanc de Noirs just released from Hugues Godmé is from the base year of 2017 and was disgorged in January of 2022, after four years aging sur latte. The wine includes thirty-five percent reserve wines from 2016 and twenty percent reserve wines from 2015 in the blend and is composed entirely from pinot noir. It is non-dosé this year, though labeled as Extra Brut. Monsieur Godmé raised forty percent of the vins clairs in older oak barrels. The wine offers up a beautifully refined bouquet of white peach, macadamia nut, sourdough bread, chalky soil tones, a hint of buttery oak and gentle smokiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, bright and full-bodied, with a superb core, lovely mineral undertow, elegant mousse and lovely focus and balance on the long, complex and very classy finish. Though this wine is non-dosé, the inclusion of fully fifty-five percent reserve wines in the blend makes it already a fine drink, as the acids are already nicely tame. Fine, fine juice. "