"One of the more structured wines in the range, even if it's far from forbidding, is the 2021 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered wine redolent of plums, raspberries, orange zest, vine smoke and toasty oak. It's framed by lively acids and powdery tannins that assert themselves on the finish."