Piuze, Patrick
- Chablis, Burgundy, France
Here is a truly thrilling new producer of hand-crafted Chablis, designed to showcase the individuality of different terroirs, not just at premier (and one grand) cru level, but within that very substantial area devoted to AC Chablis."
—Jancis Robinson on her website, October 4, 2010
...the only thing truly original in the world of wine is the underlying terroir and I have nothing else interesting to add. Anyone can copy anyone else’s techniques so what else is there to make great wines? I believe the answer is simple: Terroir. I want to work only with the fruit from old vines and even then, only old vines that are planted exclusively within the original boundaries of Chablis. If I respect these things, it will be almost impossible to make bad wine.”
—Patrick Piuze
Patrick Piuze- a Montreal native- took the region by storm when he arrived over decade ago.As for technique, he is a maverick. While 90% of Chablis is machine-harvested, he has a team of 70 harvesters, a paramount factor in the quality of his wines. Piuze works with seventeen different growers, purchasing fruit from approximately 25 hectares, and his great relationships with the growers of Chablis have allowed him access to choice parcels in all of the great sites.
While most vintners make one blended cuvée from mixed sites for their villages wine, Patrick obsessively crafts no fewer than ELEVEN different villages-level wines, each giving a distinctive expression of terroir. To make wines this way, Patrick has become a walking encyclopedia of the terroir of the area. On a recent visit to his winery, Patrick explained that Chablis is made up of rolling hillsides and valleys. The tops of the plateaus are generally Petit Chablis, north-facing vineyards are generally village-level Chablis and south-facing vineyards are 1er Cru; the Grand Cru hill has direct west/south-west exposure. The vineyards on the left bank of the Serein River generally have more clay and produce richer wines; here you find the villages of Courgis, Chichée, and 1er Cru vineyards: Forêts, Butteaux, and Vaillons. The vineyards on the right bank have much less clay top soil and more limestone – this is where you find the Grand Cru, also the villages of Fleys and Fyé and the 1er Cru, Montée de Tonnerre.
In the cellar, fermentations are spontaneous and go at their own pace. The village level "Terroir" series wines are fermented and aged mostly in old stainless steel tanks that are not temperature controlled. Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines are fermented and aged in used barrels for ten months. The barrels are always from high-acid years. All wines go through malo naturally. The village level wines are bottled in the spring and 1er Cru and Grand Cru wines are bottled in late June early July. All wines are bottled with a very gentle clay filtration.

