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This historic estate, long managed by the legendary and larger-than-life Bernd Philippi, was purchased in 2009 and since 2011 has been in the dedicated hands of Dominik Sona. He and his cellar master Franziska Schmitt are intensely hard-working and strictly honor the arch-traditional style of this beautiful, centuries-old cellar.
Koehler-Ruprecht is known for broad, rich and minerally Rieslings, Pinots and Chardonnays sourced from three locations in Kallstadt:
- The 750-yr-old Steinacker or "stony acre" which practically surrounds the village is a very rugged, gravelly sandstone and lœss mix on top of a limestone floor, home to Pinot varieties and the estate's fruity Kabinett Riesling.
- The 120-year-old Annaberg is a chalk and sandstone site where the estate's remarkable Chardonnay grows on the limestone portion and their legendary Scheurebe is derived from the first commercial plantings of that grape in Germany, planted circa 1960!
- The crown jewel of the estate is the 200+year-old Saumagen (lœss, marl, and limestone), a 40ha grand cru of which Koehler owns a prime parcel of 4ha on the original South-East facing slope. Some of the greatest, most long-lived dry Rieslings in Germany are born here.
All wines are spontaneously fermented on their own yeasts and aged entirely in large, neutral stück (1200L oval casks) and halbstück (600L). No chaptalization, no enzymes, and no manipulations of any kind are practiced here.
These are extremely old-school wines from an estate making trocken (dry) wines before it was trendy. In fact, the estate cleaves to the old labeling practice of putting both the pradikät and the trocken designation on each wine (e.g., Auslese Trocken), which the VDP no longer allows; it was one reason they left the consortium after 80 years of membership! Koehler-Ruprecht’s wines are released conspicuously late and are best enjoyed with bottle age, particularly the “R” reserve wines. It is safe to say there are no other wines like these made in Germany—or anywhere.
For more information, click here.
I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk Episode 487: Dominik Sona and a Conception of Kabinett
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Bodegas Viñas de Oro is located 133 miles south of Lima, Peru in the traditional district of El Carmen, Chincha in Ica. A father and son duo, Mr. Pedro and Mario Brescia have a background in agricultural engineering and a heart for adventure. The winery opened their doors in 1983 as part of the “Breca” Agricola unit, a Peruvian business by the Brescia Cafferata family which has been in business for over 100 years. The extensive property covers 800 hectares, 80 of which are dedicated to growing six types of Pisco grapes. Viñas de Oro values social and environmental responsibility in farming and production methods. Traditional distillation combined with modern production techniques ensures an exquisite Pisco collection of the highest quality.
VINIFICATION
Grape Harvest - Grapes Ripen February through April
Maceration - 12 Hours; This step only occurs for Italia and Torontel Grapes Stainless Steel Tanks
Wine Pressing - Utilize Italian Grape Press Concentrated Juice with No Hint of Astringency Discard Grape Skin and Seeds
DISTILLATION
Fermentation - Natural Yeast from the Grape 7 to 15 Days in Steel Tanks
Distillation - Alembic Still
Resting - 12 Months
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Bas Armagnac is a hilly and humid region located in the west in the Landes and in the Gers around Eauze. It is characterized by poor and acidic sandy-silty soils. To the west of the Gers and on part of the Landes, the sea left a Miocene formation called "sables fauves" and made up of fine quartz sands, colored by ferruginous elements. The Atlantic influence is predominant there.
Its eaux-de-vie are famous, especially to the west of the appellation in the Grand Bas Armagnac where the sables fauves outcrop: fruity, delicate, round, they are highly sought after by Armagnac lovers.
La Béroje, whose name means "the Pretty" in Gascon.
This very old agricultural estate was acquired by the Count of Rémond in the first half of the 19th century: crossed by the Ludon stream (current border between Gers and Landes) this vast property included meadows for livestock, beautiful forests and varied lands suitable for viticulture and cereals.
La Béroje is located in the heart of the black Armagnac: this old name evoked the vast oak forests, the sunken paths, the dense coppices and the dovecotes covered with ferns lurking at the edge of the woods. In 1854, it became Bas-Armagnac. The shady areas that still surround the vines promote greater acidity in the wine and a lower sugar content, which are precisely what makes it ideal for producing the best eaux-de-vie.
On the estate, complete control of the production cycle continues to be ensured: harvests, vinification, distillation, aging, bottling, marketing.
Armagnacs of Béroje are made from three white grape varieties : the oldest contain Folle Blanche, the "refinement grape variety", and it is the ancient Piquepoult that gives the eaux-de-vie a remarkable finesse characterized by floral scents and quince notes. This rather fragile grape variety must be replanted soon on well-ventilated land on the estate.
Baco and Ugni Blanc dominate: acidic and low-alcohol wines, they lend themselves wonderfully well to distillation; their blend is very interesting: Baco with its full and rich aromas gives a lot of roundness to the spirits, Ugni Blanc, more "neutral", allows the aromas from the wood to flourish.
The harvest takes place quite early , as soon as the grapes reach maturity (mid-September, early October): the wine thus has a low alcohol content which allows a better concentration of aromatic substances and a high acidity, essential for the natural conservation of the wine.
The pressing is done on site; in the cellar vats, the must produces a white wine of 8 to 10° which receives no treatment or addition:
This entirely natural process leads them to distill early a wine that is just settled but rich in light lees and perfectly healthy: distillation always takes place at La Béroje during the All Saints' Day period.
Distillation is carried out using a very old process, known since the Middle Ages in the Kingdom of France, and which has continued to be refined. It was in the middle of the 19th century that the Armagnac still was developed in its current form, a single-heat, continuous still made of pure copper: The fresh wine passes into the still where it is heated in a boiler over an open fire; the alcohol vapors, loaded with aromas, circulate in a refrigerated coil and condense, delivering perfectly transparent eau de vie.
As in the past, at Béroje, the spirits are distilled on site according to this Armagnac tradition which allows the finesse of the perfumes to be preserved, primary aromas from the vine and the terroir.
The arrival of the still and its lighting are an event that does not escape the neighbors: they come, at nightfall, to taste the new Armagnac coming out of the still.
This method of distillation, called simple or continuous, is one of the foundations of the specificity of Armagnac, distinguishing it from all other spirits such as Cognac.The spirit will gain in softness and mellowness after a long aging time but the great complexity of the aromas is preserved and will express itself over the years.
When they come out of the still, the spirits are 53° to 55°, they fill new or recent barrels
The choice of barrels plays a major role as does the cooper: Mr. Bartholomo, provides them with barrels from the South-West for each new distillation. The choice of wood, the open-air drying of the staves (at least 3 years), the making of the staves and the burning of the interior walls of the barrel play a role in the coloring and aromatic complexity of the spirit
After 1 to 2 years, and the visual and olfactory appreciation of the cellar master, the Armagnac is transferred to older barrels to continue their slow maturation. The topping up of the "pieces", the blending on the same vintage, the regular oxygenation allows the eaux-de-vie to express all their personality.
At La Béroje, Armagnacs are given time to mature: it is after more than 20 years of aging that vintage Armagnacs are offered for sale.
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Located in the southwest of France, the wines from Cahors have been famous in Europe since the Roman Empire: legend has it that at that time, they put the wines being produced in Italy to shame, and so in 92 A.D., Emperor Domitien ordered that the vines in Cahors be pulled up in order to eliminate competition for Roman vineyards!
The Château Haute-Théron was built after the French Revolution in 1789, in the hills overlooking the Lot Valley. The seventy-four acres of vineyards, planted entirely to Malbec (Cot), have a southern exposure with limestone soils; some of the vines here are over thirty-five years old.
This wine is produced under the Sustainable Agriculture Policy.
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Hank Beckmeyer and his wife, Caroline Hoel, met in the 80s while he was on tour in Europe with his band Half Japanese. Hank left the band and the tour to remain with Caroline in Europe, and over the years they would take trips to the south of France, drink a bunch of Bandol at Domaine Tempier, and discuss how much they loved what these smaller producers were doing. They eventually decided to make wine themselves, and California seemed like the right place to do it.
In 2001, the two settled in Somerset (El Dorado County, Sierra Foothills) at a site 2600 feet up in the foothills and planted a few acres of vines - mostly Tempranillo but also Syrah, Tannat, Grenache, Negroamaro, Cabernet Sauvignon, and some unknown varieties that emerged from seeds in the compost heap. The vineyard was first farmed biodynamically (certified for a few years), but eventually evolved into the farmer-philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka’s ‘do nothing’ methods. As the name implies, the vineyard grows wild with weeds, insects, birds, and all sorts of life teeming among the vines.
From this vineyard a single wine is made in extremely low quantities and for the rest of their wines, Hank and Caro purchase fruit from like-minded, organic farmers in the foothills.
Hank and Caroline use natural methods for making their wines and have been doing so long before it became trendy in California. Generally, this means native yeasts, neutral vessels, and nothing added except a small amount (if any) of SO2 at bottling. Their goal is to make wines that are alive and enjoyable to drink during all stages of their lives while at the same time expressing the vineyards. Just taste a vertical lineup of Sumu Kaw Syrah or Cedarville Mourvedre and see for yourself!
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Andrea Marcesini and his small farm, La Felce, can be found in the far east of Liguria, right on the border with Tuscany. La Felce--the fern--is the name of the località, like a lieu-dit, because the plant thrives in the acidic soils of the area. Andrea likes the image of the fern for another reason: it was one of the first land plants on Earth, along with moss and lichens and, “to add a little poetry,” La Felce is one the oldest farms in this corner of Liguria.
It’s the classic story of a multi-generational polyculture farm. Andrea had been working as a carpenter for years, but upon his grandfather’s retirement in 1998, he came back to the land. He was the first to shift the focus to production of wine in bottle. These days, though, he’s returned to the concept of mixed agriculture. Beyond wine, La Felce is a commercial producer of fruits, vegetables, olives, saffron, and honey.
They farm 6.5 hectares of vines, 11 parcels in the radius of 10 kilometers. Vermentino is the main planting, and it’s here in the Colli di Luni where the grape arguably reaches its greatest expressions. The vineyards are also peppered with Malvasia, Trebbiano, and Albarola for the whites; for the reds, you can find Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Massaretta, Alicante Bouschet, Barbera and Merlot. The ultimate goal is to cultivate perfect grapes, choose the harvest dates with maniacal precision, and then gently guide them in the cellar so that they make honest, elegant, territorial wine. The Marcesinis have always farmed organically, not for commercial reasons but for the desire to leave the land healthier for the next generation. Andrea’s son, Francesco, age 22, is involved 100% and is poised to take the reins when the moment is right. Viva La Felce!
For Andrea, wine is meant to be drunk, not to be marketed or fetishized. He doesn’t understand large wineries with seemingly endless stock of crafted and tailored wines. In his words, “it’s the market that has to choose the product, not the product that chooses a market.” He prefers the freedom of the IGP Liguria di Levante rather than classify his wines under the DOC Colli di Luni. Ironically, he’s the president of the newly formed consorzio for the DOCs of Colli di Luni/Cinque Terre/Colline di Levanto! He also created a beautiful project in a local psychiatric hospital, where he planted a small vineyard in the ward’s courtyard garden. He’s taught some of the residents to work the vineyard, giving them fresh air and a chance at work integration. In 2023 the goal is to bottle this comunal vineyard’s first 4,000 or so bottles.
Andrea is a busy farmer, ultra-protective of what little down time he has. He’s notoriously adverse to technology, including that especially pernicious example known as E-Mail. He was once spotted on Zoom, though, and there’s a video to prove it. Anyway, he’d rather be in the vineyards or out with his truffle dog, Otto. For all of these reasons, his wines have had little presence in the States. We welcome La Felce to Bowler with a tight squeeze!
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Fattoria La Gerla, named for the large, old-fashioned, conical baskets that grape-harvesters used to carry on their backs, was founded in 1976 by the late Sergio Rossi. Originally from Milan, Mr. Rossi purchased the property in 1975 from Tedina Biondi-Santi, the daughter of Tancredi Biondi-Santi, who had inherited the property after her father’s passing. The purchase of what was then called the Podere Colombaio Santi included an ancient farmhouse and 6.5 hectare of vineyards. Mr. Rossi, who by then had been managing the Altesino-Caparzo estate for several years, renamed the property La Gerla and set about restoring the estate and replanting the vines using selection massale. His first vintage was 1976, making La Gerla one of the first 35 bottlers of Brunello di Montalcino; these days, there are 280.
Today, La Gerla consists of 11.5 hectares, divided between the original 6.5 hectare vineyard in Canalicchio (Montalcino) and an additional 5 hectares in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, where Mr. Rossi was presciently the first to plant vines in earnest. The estate, now run by vineyard manager/director Alberto Passeri and winemaker Vittorio Fiore, makes five wines, all made entirely from Sangiovese Grosso, the only grape planted on the property:
- Poggio Gli Angeli— made from young vines in Castelnuovo, in the Brunello zone but not registered as such. This wine spends 4 months in Slavonian botti.
- Rosso di Montalcino— sourced from the same sites as the Brunello, is aged for two years, one of which is in Slavonian oak casks.
- Birba— an IGT Toscana that is made from 100% Sangiovese; it starts as a Brunello di Montalcino and is then declassified. The only difference is that it sees about a year in barrique before moving to large Slavonian botte.
- Brunello— a blend of both the Canalicchio and Castelnuovo vineyards. The grapes are kept cool for 7-8 days before fermentation, which lasts up to 15 days. The wine is then transferred to large 50-100hl casks and is aged for three years, racked twice a year, then bottled. It is then aged for an additional year before release. This is classic Brunello; focused and flavorful, with hints of violets and berries on the nose, a rich, velvety texture and excellent acidity.
- Brunello gli Angeli (Riserva)— made in select years, this comes entirely from a one hectare parcel of old vines from the original Biondi-Santi site, located between 270 and 320 meters above sea level. This hillside vineyard occupies a privileged position at the estate and consistently offers beautiful and healthy fruit. The wine is kept for 4 years in 50 hectoliter Slavonian oak casks and kept for an additional year in bottle before being released.
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La Onda is a project dedicated to making living wines of distinctive character. Though it literally translates to “the wave”, La Onda is also slang for “the vibe”, and Dani’s wines are all about capturing this sense, the essence of a time and place. Using low-intervention methods, native fermentations, neutral oak, and minimal sulfur, he does nothing that could obscure the terroir.
Dani currently farms four acres of own-rooted vines in the Sierra Foothills, split between two slopes at 1,900 and 2,500 ft elevation. The vineyards are wild, a true collection of vines, granite, red clay, insects, bees, herbs, flowers, berries, thistles and hungry animals. The farming is chemical free, without irrigation, without tillage and demands tons of work by hand and hand tools. The grapes are harvested by making several passes through the same vineyard sections over the course of weeks, slowly building fermentations with ripe grapes.
A few wines are produced from these vineyards and an additional four from other organic and/or biodynamic vineyards farmed by friends. The winemaking is very simple: all the wines are either foot-stomped and left to ferment, foot-stomped then pressed or immediately pressed whole-cluster. There is no de-stemming, no additives and juice/wine is almost always moved by gravity flow rather than by pump. Wines are left to age in barrel for as long as they need and then bottled unfined/unfiltered before further bottle aging.
BOWLER E-Zine Issue 2 | Q1 2021: Granite Connections: Itata and Sierra Foothills - A conversation with Dani Rozman of Onda Brava and La Onda
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Thank you to importer Louis/Dressner for this profile of La Petite Empreinte:
La Petite Empreinte, or “the little footprint” is an estate that truly lives up to its name. Founded by Mélissa Bazin with the help of her husband Romain De Moor in 2020, together the couple work a whopping two hectares of vines from A to Z, producing very limited quantities of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sauvignon Blanc.
After meeting and falling in love during respective apprenticeships in the Jura (Julien Labet for Mélissa and Jean-François Ganevat for Romain), the couple agreed to move back to Burgundy so Romain could join his parents Alice and Olivier at their eponymous estate in Chablis. Always set on doing her own thing, Mélissa set forth to find some parcels to work on her own. Through a program designed to help young producers find land to start their own estates, she was able start renting plots in 2020, eventually purchasing the vines in 2022.
The first and largest sector consists of two plots totaling one hectare, all planted in 1990. Located in Saint-Bris on an idyllic coteau of Kimmeridgian limestone overlooking the Yonne river, Pinot Noir is the main variety planted here, along with 10 ares of Gamay. Two wines are produced from this land: a Pinot called “Mas a Tierra” and a magnum only cuvée of Gamay. For the latter, a single barrel is produced each vintage.
The second parcel consists of 40 ares of Pinot Noir, from which they produce the cuvée “Tapis Rouge”. The vines here are exposed full South and were planted in 1978 on a steep coteau of Portlandian limestone. In addition, a yet-to-be released Saint-Bris is produced from two small plots, the first 30 years old and exposed West, the other planted in 1959 on white clay, exposed North and very low producing due to court noué.
Bazin and De Moor, in addition to raising two young daughters and Romain working full time with his parents, do 100% of the work and currently have no employees. Mélissa is responsable for the manual work in the vines (pruning, green harvest…) with Romain doing the tractor work. The vines are certified organic or in conversion towards certification. Cover crops have been incorporated since 2021 and, like Alice and Olivier in Chablis, they have been planting fruit trees in the vines to encourage biodiversity and break up the monoculture of viticulture/create stronger rhizome networks in the soil.
In the cellar, the couple work off instinct and communally make all vinification decisions together. Maceration lengths, pigeages/remontages (or lack thereof) have varied each vintage, but the wines all ferment and age in old barrels with no S02 is added at any point. Everything is currently vinified in the De Moor cellar, but Mélissa and Romain are in the process constructing their own, in all likelihood for the 2025 vintage.
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Thanks to Louis/Dressner for this profile of their new import Domaine La Providence:
(Click here for more on La Providence on the LDM website)
For over 20 years, Jean Benoit and Bénédicte Comor have dreamed of starting their own estate. They’d even gotten close a few times: first in the Beaujolais, Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé then in Limoux. From false starts and dashed hopes, opportunity struck in 2016: located in the village of Lambesc, about 30 minutes North-West from Aix-en-Provence, a property called La Pomme had become available. The couple, originally from the area, instantly fell in love with the old farm house and 18 hectares of vines.
Lambesc and its surrounding environs have changed dramatically in the last 20 years. Well into the 1990’s, this was a poor agricultural region where most farmers lived off traditional models of polyculture. Then came the rosé craze of the early 2000’s, with Provence front and center. A shift in focus was inevitable: almost overnight vines became a monoculture, with people planting anywhere they could: terroir be damned, if it grows it goes. The prior owner of La Pomme worked in an ultra-conventional fashion, focusing exclusively on yields. 95% of his grapes were destined for the local cave cooperative’s rosé.
From the beginning, JB and Bénédicte wanted more than an organic conversion, hiring famed biodynamic consultants Lydia and Claude Bourguignon. In addition to the conversion (the estate is now certified organic), JB quickly starting ripping out vines to replant three hectares of indigenous Provençal grapes and is planning to rip out an additional five hectares including all of the estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon. Much of what has been ripped out was planted on richer soils on the edge each parcel, now left bare or replanted with olive and fruit trees. Convinced that white wine has a huge potential on his white clay and limestone soils, Jean Benoit has currently planted three plots with a dizzying array of white grapes: Terret, Ugni Blanc, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Carignan Blanc, Macabeu, Bourboulenc, Grenache Gris, Clairette Rose…
They are also replanting thousands of replacement vines in select parcels suffering from esca and/or overproduction and adding palissage for the Syrah vines that desperately need them. All new plantings are selected between three pépiniéristes to ensure as much diversity as possible. For vines destined for estate production, JB works every other row superficially while planting the other with cover-crop and letting it rest a year. For those still destined for the cave cooperative, only the edges of the rows are worked with a mechanical disk. Finally, the biggest project is to create terraces in one of their main plots where years of chemical abuse, erosion and tractors have warped the rows, making it impossible to work the soils without switching devices or vehicles mid-row. What a tremendous undertaking: five years of hard work and this is just the beginning!
After five years honoring their inherited contract with the cave cooperative, in 2020 Jean Benoit was able to vinify a small amount of rosé and a scant 2000 bottles of a delicious red wine called “La Providence”. From a small makeshift cellar in their barn, roughly 20 times more wine was vinified in 2021, an atypical and rainy vintage that led to blocked maturations and low concentration. Grapes were hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts in various vessels (fiberglass, stainless, concrete) but mostly in old Burgundian barrels. The barrels saw two bâtonnages a day and were racked after malo; depending on volatility levels, sulfites were added to some but not all vessels. It’s unclear what blends will come out this complicated first vintage, but from what we’ve tasted the goal is to make elegant, structured but not over-extracted reds that break the regions’ conventions while (perhaps by) respecting the terroir. Everything will be bottled in Vin de France, perhaps not so crazy in our world but pretty damn ballsy in the ultra-chic, celebrity winery milieu of 2020’s Provence.
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